Liteni (Magyarléta, Ungarischlitta) – Cluj County
Located less than 40 km from the center of Cluj, Liteni Fortress stands as a silent guardian over the Iara Valley. The picturesque landscape it watches over, with its dense green forests, draws tourists like a magnet. Yet, the fortress’s tourism potential remains untapped.
Liteni Fortress, the stern guardian of the Salt Road
First mentioned in documents as early as 1324, Castrum Leta was the southernmost stronghold in The Land of Călata. As an important royal fortress, it oversaw the transport of salt from Turda and precious metals from the Apuseni Mountains. In 1405, Hungarian King Sigismund of Luxembourg donated Liteni Fortress to the city of Cluj. In 1441, King Vladislaus I granted the estate once owned by former voivode Dezső Losonczi to vice-voivode Márk Herepei. Later, at the end of 1450, thanks to Governor John Hunyadi, the fortress came into the possession of the Jakcs de Kusaly family. Hunyadi’s elder sister, Klára Csolnokosy, also claimed the property, and King Ladislaus the Posthumous awarded it to her on April 4, 1456.
In 1501, King Vladislaus II granted the royal fortress to John Corvinus, the illegitimate son of King Matthias Corvinus. After periods of ownership by Francisc Balassa de Gyarmat (1524) and Boldizsár Bornemissza (1544), a tragic event marked the fortress’s history. In conflict with King John Sigismund, Menyhárt Balassa surrendered after a siege against the fortress once owned by his parents, Orsolya Perényi and Francisc Balassa. Once the future Transylvanian prince’s troops entered the fortress’s underground, the gunpowder magazine exploded. Liteni Fortress was destroyed, and fifty soldiers along with their captain, János Szilvási, died on that fateful day — February 12, 1562.
Why is Liteni Fortress also called Géczy Fortress?
After returning to the city of Cluj, Liteni Fortress was granted in 1569 to János Ghiczy, future governor of Transylvania. He restored and made it habitable again — hence the name Géczy Fortress. From this moment on, historical records about the fortress fade into obscurity. Most likely, like many other fortresses, it was completely destroyed following the suppression of Francis II Rákóczi’s kuruc uprising and the signing of the Treaty of Satu Mare on April 29, 1711. On the Josephine Map of Transylvania (1769-1773), the fortress was already labeled as „Altes Schloss” — Old Castle.
The fortress was relatively small, with an irregular rectangular shape, an inner and outer fortification. The entrance was on the eastern side, while on the western side, a steep cliff rises, atop which the fortress was built. Today, the older upper fortress, especially its old tower, is best preserved. From the lower section, likely built in the 16th century, a hexagonal tower and the eastern wall remain. Archaeological excavations have uncovered pottery fragments with the image of Saint Ladislaus of Hungary, arrowheads from the 10th–11th centuries, silver rings, and stone tools. All suggesting that Liteni Fortress may be much older than its first documentary attestation indicates.
Legends of Liteni Fortress and the myths of the Géczy Dynasty
One legend says that Lord Géczy locked his disobedient lovers in the cave to the east, called Kisasszonykő — „The Maiden’s Rock.” Likewise, he threw his unfaithful servants into the abyss called „Dazsáköve.” The exact meaning of this term is unclear, but most likely refers to suffering and torment.
In his volume „Magyarország lovagvárai” (The Knightly Castles of Hungary), renowned Hungarian writer Kálmán Mikszáth devotes an entire chapter to Liteni Fortress. The work blends history, legend, and myth in Mikszáth’s unique style. The full translation of the chapter Castrum Léta is as follows:
„In old documents it appears under the name Castrum Léta (Léta Fortress), but it is commonly called Ghéczy Fortress, after the Ghéczy dynasty. The castle belonged to this family for many centuries.
Many colorful stories have survived about the lord of the castle.
One of the Ghéczys was so arrogant and so wealthy that he did not know what to do with his gold. He decided to have a bull cast out of gold. He summoned artists, and they cast the enormous bull. Ghéczy (whom some old records also refer to as Ghiczy) had it placed in the center of the castle. The artists now awaited their payment, but the lord said:
— The bull exists, but it is motionless, does not eat, and does not drink. Therefore, breathe a soul into it, if you can; but if you cannot, I will drive your souls out of you!
Of course, the artists could not make the golden bull come to life, which enraged the lord.
— I will give you three more days, and if the bull does not move by then, on the fourth day at dawn I will have you all beheaded.
No doubt he would have kept his word, but God, angered that a mortal sought to meddle in His domain, caused a strong earthquake on the third day. The quake shook the solid walls of the castle, and the golden bull moved — for it sank without a trace.
Even today, the superstitious Romanians living in the area think of the golden bull whenever they hear a clanging sound beneath their ploughshares.
A more mischievous deed was committed by another Ghéczy, a young man who frequently traveled to Cluj on his fine white steed, watering it in the Jára stream that flowed beneath the castle.
On one occasion, while in Cluj, he spotted a pretty woman sweeping in front of a small house. She was the wife of a local shoemaker. Ghéczy smiled at her, and the woman smiled back.
— Ah, my dove — he said — in Ghéczy Fortress, you wouldn’t need to sweep.
The woman herself wasn’t too fond of sweeping; one word led to another, and by the time the shoemaker returned home, his wife was gone.
Enraged, the craftsman loaded all sorts of deadly weapons onto a cart and set out with his men to storm the fortress and retrieve his wife.
For two days, the shoemaker pounded on the strong gate of the castle, until finally the lord appeared, laughing heartily.
— Well, what do you want, my brave and honest shoemaker?
— My wife.
— And what would you do with her? Her heart belongs here now.
— I’ll take her home by her two ears if I have to! — the shoemaker shouted, stamping his feet in fury.
— Well then, there are her two ears — ended Ghéczy, pointing with both hands toward two villages that lay nearby — take them, they’re yours.
With that, he slammed the door in the shoemaker’s face and ordered that the two small villages — which to this day are called Alsófüle and Felsőfüle (n.r. the Hungarian term „fül” matches the English „ear”) — be handed over to the shoemaker.
After the shoemaker’s death, the two villages passed into the ownership of the city of Cluj. Later, a small part was separated, and Cluj named it Asszonyfalva (n.r. „Women’s Village”) because it was acquired through a woman. To this day, Cluj remains the landowner of this village.”
The fastest route to Liteni Fortress, a category A historical monument, starts from the village of Moara de Pădure. A modest wooden sign marks the path through the forest, following the stream’s right bank. After a gentle half-hour climb, one reaches the uniquely beautiful plateau. Some seek tranquility and picnic on the meadow in front of the fortress; others climb the steep rock wall. Those in search of mysteries seek the wandering souls of the fallen soldiers and echoes of local legends. Should Liteni Fortress remain wild and untouched — or restored and preserved? What would be better for its future?