Ciceu-Corabia (Csicsóújfalu) – Bistrița-Năsăud County
Destroyed five centuries ago, during a turbulent era of Transylvanian history, we discover a place that has remained spectacular and overwhelming. Today, through its pale ruins and the enchanting landscape it guards, Ciceu Fortress still keeps alive the legend of the stronghold that once saved Petru Rareș.
A snowy adventure toward a fortress destroyed in the 1500s
I drive along the narrow, snow-covered road toward a place steeped in history. A shy deer appears in my path; I slow down and let it retreat in silence. I park the car and set out on the trail climbing toward the summit, the snow crunching beneath my boots. The bells of the Petru Rareș Vodă Monastery, built at the base of the medieval fortress, pierce the dense fog settling over Măgura. I continue upward and reach an obelisk erected in 1927, bearing the historic coat of arms of Moldavia. But what is the aurochs’ head doing in the forests of Transylvania?
Ciceu Fortress — refuge for the Moldavian ruler Petru Rareș
Built at the meeting point of today’s villages Ciceu-Corabia, Ciceu-Giurgești, and Dumbrăveni in Bistrița-Năsăud County, the history of Ciceu Fortress stretches back to the late 13th century, being constructed between 1293 and 1304. Positioned strategically on a volcanic hill nearly 700 meters high — from which the name Ciceu derives, from the Hungarian word „csúcs” meaning „peak” — the stronghold was exceptionally difficult to conquer. Walls surrounded it on only three sides, while to the north a steep vertical cliff rendered it practically inaccessible.
Built of rhyolite, the fortress originally seems to have had an irregular quadrilateral shape, with a tower at each corner. In the second half of the 15th century, King Matthias Corvinus granted the fortress and its estate to Stephen the Great of Moldavia after the ruler acknowledged Hungarian suzerainty. The rights later passed to his illegitimate son, Peter IV — Petru Rareș. In September 1538, betrayed by boyars and with Moldavia occupied by Suleiman the Magnificent, Petru Rareș was forced to flee to Transylvania, taking refuge with his family in Ciceu Fortress.
Ciceu Fortress and the legend of Lady Elena’s hidden treasure
A legend connected to Ciceu Fortress says that the ruler’s wife, Lady Elena, hid the family treasure in one of the nearby caves. There are at least seven caves in the area, and no one knows which one it might be. It is said that the cave opens only on Midsummer Night, on the feast of the Nativity of Saint John the Baptist. It is also said that whoever enters the cave never returns, which is why no one has ever dared to search for the treasure. From the hilltop, in winter, a true white „sea” spreads in every direction, and in summer a green „oasis.” A truly legendary panorama.
In 1540 the fortress was besieged, and Petru Rareș left for Constantinople hoping to regain his lost throne. After becoming ruler of Moldavia again with Suleiman’s support, he tried to reclaim his lost stronghold. Tired of the constant threat, Queen Isabella of Hungary ordered its destruction through the governor of Transylvania, Gheorghe Martinuzzi (1544). By the late 17th century, Ciceu Fortress was mentioned only as a bandits’ nest. For decades locals carried away its stones, until archaeologist Torma Károly, former count of Inner Solnoc County, forbade the practice in the 19th century.
I cast my final glances toward the snow-covered Ciceu Fortress. Today only the walls of the northern tower of the upper castle and fragments of the outer fortifications remain visible. Ancient stones registered as historical monument — left as testimony for future generations.